Visiting Monticello

I had the opportunity to visit Monticello the other day. Considering my recent trip where I visited some of my Roane family relations on another plantation in Louisiana, I knew It was going to be a day of mixed emotions.

While I knew Monticello sat atop a mountain, it never occurred to me exactly what went into its actual construction. Enter our (amazing) tour guide, Mary. One of the first things she told our tour group was that it had taken hundreds of enslaved people to literally level the uppermost part of the mountain in order to create the flat plateau visitors to Monticello see today. It didn’t occur to me until long after our tour had finished to ask how much earth had been removed as part of that human engineering feat. It was an exceedingly hot and humid day when we visited. I couldn’t image the physical toll that endeavor must have taken. While the view from the house and the surrounding gardens and terraces are stunning…they came at a real human price.

The land surrounding Monticello is what remains of the top of a mountain which was cleared away through the labour of enslaved people
The image above gives you some idea of the view of the surrounding area from Monticello.  You can literally see the surrounding countryside for miles in every direction.

Thomas Jefferson, the man behind the building of Monticello, was a practical man. The tons of earth his enslaved population removed, in order to clear the land for the estate, were used to make the very bricks which built the house. It was also used to daub the gaps of the cabins built for his enslaved population. Very little, it seems, went to waste.

The bricks used in the construction of the house and the surrounding terraces and outbuildings were made with the distinctive red soil that was removed in the creation of the flat plateau.

At the start of the tour, Mary asked people in our group where we’d come from. I mentioned that I was from London and Boston. I can’t remember the exact question that prompted my next answer. It had something to do with was I excited about being there. I laughed as I told her I was, but for a reason she probably would find very hard to believe. She countered with “Try me.” So I mentioned that Thomas Jefferson was an ancestral cousin via one set of known common ancestors – Thomas Grey, 2nd Marquess of Dorset, and his wife, Margaret Wolton. Mary didn’t blink and answered with something of a cheeky grin: “Why on earth would I find that hard to believe?” There are other common ancestors via my Randolph line, however, I need to do much more work on that family to find the relatively more recent common ancestors via that line. My sister mentioned that Sally Hemmings was also a cousin and a Sheffey family relation via her Woodson descendants.

It was at that point that I clocked her surname…and spent the rest of the tour impatiently waiting for a chance to ask her a question about some of her ancestors. Mary’s surname is one that I know very, very well from years of researching my Virginia family. Because I haven’t had an opportunity to ask her if she’d be fine with me using her full name (I’m positive she would be. However, it’s always good to have that permission), I’m not going to publish her surname.

My brother (left) and I chatting to our newfound cousin Mary (centre). The small building in the background is where Thomas Jefferson and his family lived during the construction of Monticello.  Picture courtesy of Khoncepts

So, as we moved to one of the terraces, I asked her if she was a descendant of a famous Jamestown family. She readily answered ‘yes’. I explained how I was a descendant of the same family via a labyrinth of Ball-Mottrom marriages on my father’s maternal line through his Roane line, as well as Poythress-Strother marriages on his paternal side of his family through his Clark line. She laughed out loud. That was it. We were cousins. I had to laugh myself. I joked with her that she couldn’t have expected that as she got ready for work that morning. She couldn’t resist sharing that piece of news with the rest of the tour group.

Which just goes to prove one of the central premises behind Genealogy Adventures: Americans are connected to each other in amazing, surprising, and long forgotten ways – regardless of race, ethnicity, or other measures used to divide us from one another.

Things took a decidedly deeper, more contemplative, and spiritual turn as my siblings and I made our way to where Sally Hemmings had her rooms.

My brother and I standing in front of Sally hemming’s rooms. Picture courtesy of Khoncepts

Where she lived is currently an active archaeological dig site, so we were not able to actually go in and see. Nevertheless, in the moments before the above snap was taken, I spent some time contemplating the life of this familial relation. The range of emotions was wide and varied.

Next came Mulberry Row.  It was here that I stood inside a cabin for enslaved people for the first time in my life. The Hemmings cabin, as it’s called, is a reproduction – and by no means your typical slave cabin. From what our second tour guide told us, it reflected the status of the Hemmings family – well, as much ‘status’ as any enslaved person could attain  Just to put that into a realistic context.

Exterior shot of the Hemmings cabin
Interior shot of the Hemmings cabin

Too many thoughts went through my head to share here. Everywhere I looked, I returned to the thought than an entire family would have shared this humble space. I went pretty quiet as I contemplated that existence.  Suffice to say it was a powerful and stark experience. My only comment was to my brother as I said that, while I knew there were many African-descended Americans who couldn’t make the same claim – that our family had come a long, long way from the days this cabin represented. That’s all that needed to be said.

Our final stop before we left was the cemetery for the enslaved people. That space hit me the hardest.


There are 400 known enslaved souls who toiled at Monticello. To-date, only 40 of their burials are known. No one knows who any of these 40 individuals were. They are nameless. The area of the demarcated cemetery is small. It would take a minute to walk across its width, and about a minute to walk across its length. It’s small. As for headstones or engraved markers? There are none. Just a few rocks.

The image above is a plaque with a list containing the names of only a fraction of the enslaved souls who died at Monticello.  It is not an indication of any of the 40 known graves in the fenced off portion of the cemetery.

To say this hit me hard would be an understatement. It was like being sucker punched. I simply wasn’t expecting it. Nor was I alone. A friendly, middle-aged European-descended couple arrived just as my siblings and I were leaving. The wife asked us if we knew where the slave cemetery was. My siblings and I pointed to the space in front of us , and said, almost in unison: “This is it.”

Both of them looked perplexed. And the wife asked us another question: “But where are the headstones?” My voice was pretty flat as I spoke. “Those handful of rocks. That’s it.” Both of them were horrified, and visibly upset. All I could offer them was, “It is what it is.”  Really, that’s all I could say.  In that instance they got it.  I knew they got it. I could see it on their faces. And, I suppose, that is the unspoken power of places like Monticello.

That’s the full circle of my experience at Monticello.  At the start, it was visiting the ancestral home of a distant cousin.  The latter, the stark reminder of why I am related to Thomas Jefferson at all….through slavery. It’s quite the thing to wrap my head around at times and face.  However, as I said to the couple at the cemetery for the enslaved, it is what it is.

12 thoughts on “Visiting Monticello

  1. Your posts are inspiring, as well as very informative. I am also a STROTHER/BALL/MOTTRAM .
    I am a native Virginian who has been fascinated by genealogy since I was only sixteen year old.
    I really enjoy your thoughts and reflections as well as your meticulous research. I especially appreciate your recent “critical thinking” post. I have it on my desktop and reread it often.
    Thank you!

  2. Thanks Brian for sharing your thoughts and experiences with us. It must have been fantastic to finally meet some of them, as well.

  3. Brian – a deeply moving piece. Thank you very much for sharing your reflections on an understandably very emotional visit.
    If you are in Virginia for a while, please feel free to come over to Mahockney! We would be honored to have you here, and it would certainly wake up a few of the old Roane ghosts…

    1. Hi Lewis. I’m back in Virginia in the Richmond area later in the autumn. I’m presenting at a genealogy conference. I will absolutely let you know the dates once they are confirmed.

      On a different note…I received an email yesterday about the article I did on Pleasant Roane (the man in Lynchburg who won his freedom). It turns out that he was originally enslaved by Thomas Jefferson. I’m corresponding with the person who sent me that info. How random was that? I was at Monticello the day before – and didn’t post or publish anything about that visit prior to this gentleman contacting me. The ancestors are active at the moment 🙂

  4. It’s the American experience. We are all affected by slavery. Your posts are a necessary education.

  5. Brian, I have been receiving your blog pieces for several months, but this is the first time I’ve actually taken the time to read one. (I apologize). My ancestors overwhelmingly came from Virginia and Massachusetts and I am Ball/Mottrom related. I was thrilled to read your piece. I believe Thomas Jefferson was related, but there are so many branches to drill down on that I haven’t followed this branch.

    Thank you.

    1. Just a heads up – the Ball/Mottrom ancestral line that I found connects to Thomas Jefferson way back in the distant past in England. I’ve been told there was a relatively more recent one (e.g. late 1600s/early 1700s) but I haven’t found that one yet. If I find anything, I’ll let you know.

  6. You were in my town! I can see Carter Mountain (upon which Monticello sits) from my apartment. 🙂 If you’re ever back in Charlottesville, you should take a little detour to visit the Bowles family cemetery. My neighborhood was built on acreage called Free State that once belonged to Amy Bowles Farrow, a free African American woman during the antebellum period. Her daughter-in-law was Critta Hemings (older sister of Sally Hemings, although the historical marker mistakenly describes her as Sally’s younger sister). Anyway, the cemetery still exists, and the developers of my neighborhood erected an informational kiosk outside the cemetery about the Free State community. Here’s a short description that I found online:

    1. Hi Robyn,

      I have to admit I fell in love hard with Charlottesville. It’s one of those places I could easily picture myself living in. Not to mention the best restaurant meal I’ve had since I’ve been back in the States – the French place a couple of blocks down from the Impeccable Pig. Plus the gelateria and the fudge place. Yep, I’m a foodie. What happened there right after my visit just broke my heart for many reasons. Still, my memoirs of a warm and friendly welcome from the residents of Charlottesville will be my lasting memory.

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